In today's episode we are 3d printing a custom designed vent for the wide body Huracan.
If you're in the market for a printer head to www.creality3donline.com
And if you want to learn more about 3d printing and all other sorts of fun stuff check out Matthew's channel at
fistream.info
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten
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Music:
Fareoh - Cloud Ten
holy shit this is resident sleeper
what printer and soft ware are you using thinking about buying one and making some stuff for my car
that limit switch is a common problem you should see my review of the Creality CR6-SE, let me know if you guys ever need help with a future project, Also if you ever need parts, Microcenter has most of the replacement parts from Creality
since you are a begginer,here is a tip from me a begginer how sterted 6 months ago.i have an ender3 pro which is basicly the smaller version of your machine,and what i want to tell you is that these machines are incredibly stable if you tighten their Y and X axis belts,meaning that since you basicly cut the model in half creating a superflat surfase you could have printed both parts verticly with no supports whatsoever. also you can use a bit of gluestick to help the prints stick better.On top f that yoy can also increase the base layer thickness in the slicing software or ad a "raft" to ensure perfection in your print's base.i know it sounds complicated but once you get understanding it it reallly is basic...
Also what was the Poly filament you used? I’ve been wanting to make An ITB intake adapter that will sit right against the engine
That Poly will be good for engine parts
One day Your channel will touch centillion
cr-30 is for you
what printer model is that?
F
Does that 3d printer allow you to use aluminium? or make maybe car rotors ? ..reply is appreciated
THANK YOU FOR SHARING. My 2c tip for the adjoining parts. You can create a feature to allow the 2 halves to interlock simply by pushing the together with some moderate force depending on the fit you want (options are endless). So you can control the alignment of the parts relative to each other. There after you can glue, weld, surface prep etc. I know its a year old...but anyway. ISH - South Africa
Oh no, it's 3D printing noob mistake number 1... leaving a new printer overnight. It can sometimes take years to get a printer dailed into 100% reliability, until then you have to remember to come check on it.
Limit switches tend to break a lot in shipping. I had to replace the switch and the entire bracket holding it on the Y axis. Now I have a poker chip bracket holding my fixed limit switch...
What was the filament called you used please
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Love the project, a thought. Couldnt you like bondo the part to fill the gaps, sand it down, prime it, and then wrap it?
How do you print a front bumper? That’s my question lol
Nice job B for Build Check out this Whole car.... 💪😆🤘 Dad n son printed lambo fistream.info
What kind of filament did you guys use?
Just print the spoon upside down without support
A year late, but octoprint can help prevent that massive failure. There is AI that can identify bird nesting, and notify you so you can stop the print from home.
i want your laptop 😇
Just a thought but I think coating them in Bondi would make them alot stronger and more rigid and usable altogether
Can you recommend any 3d softwer an slicer to use for such project, please?
This was hard to watch. Lol
Beautiful video.
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tom segura
*C Is For Carbon*
This is a little late, but you certainly would have had a huge advantage with a chamber around the printer, to protect the print from drafts, as well as adding another stiffening frame for the printer itself. As for you sanding plastic without a mask...good luck with your health in the near future!
would it have been better to glue those two together?
OK, where are finding a roll of PLA for $13?
Hi 3D printing fans. Do you have little experience or time for 3D modeling? Send me a sketch and I'll draw it for you for free. E-mail: 3d-printing@centrum.cz
Supports infill set too high, 5% will be enough
I know this was a year ago but I had the same thing happen repeatedly and making sure the temp in the room is warm and you have a clean print surface is important but MOST OF ALL, raise your print bed temp AND filament, the filament quality is SOOO important I settlers on poly maker, it goes down so smooth and nicely. It needs to be warm enough to keep the first layer sticky. The z axis will autocorrect itself but as it calibrates it will slowly get farther away from where it should (I don’t know why, it has to be an auto calibration system) I know this was a long time ago just couldn’t resist
Can it print a car dashboard size
10:25 could pass that off to the Chernobyl souvenirs department
Wow, I can’t believe you did not show the completed part wrapped in carbon fiber bum rip
Im gonna cry right here, please clean your fucking print bed 😭
How did you make the curves perfect in CAD? With a scanner or something or just a template
How do you like the cr-10 max I'm interested in buying one I bought the Ender 3 V2 but was told the wrong information so now that's just a stand until they can figure out their software so I am looking at purchasing one of these and would like an out ciders point of view that has already used this machine so I'd like to know it's you think about the printer before I purchased on another one from them which I would hate to do but it seems like they're the only ones that have a printer with a big platform like that thank you and I appreciate it
I have a lot of problems with cura slicer at about 50% of printing...
Car part in PLA ? Its gonna melt in spring XD
blackops4
"Someday, all cars, will be made this way" - 1980's Audi advert.
workout
next time you are using petg/asa/abs or literally ANY printer filament that you need to remove supports i suggest you spend the time to use the slicer. I for one use a free one called Cura. In cura there are settings to change for the support material. I suggest using as little support density as possible and use a larger spacing between support and model. Also consider splitting the parts into two by just lowering the part until its below the printsurface and take note of the -z value. Save the gcode file. Then flip the model 180 in z axis to turn it upsidedown. continue to lower the z axis until you hit the same value as on the previous part. This makes your part into 2 models with a 100% straigt and smooth surface to glue together. There are many different types of glue suitable for each type of filament. Good luck and do not hesitate to contact me if you need any help with printers :) Best wishes from a norwegian filamentfanboy
How come 🇨🇳 has so many population and nobody come out with something that last over a week 🤔
Cool
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If you print any more that I would recommend you try to print them vertically as it would save on filament and would not need to know support and is far stronger print overall.
Ons sini is skeef
boxing
can you make a cross motor body with that printer?
Glass bed will save you alot of these problems
laptop acer predator helio 300? just looks like it because i have the white version XD
Have you done any more 3D printing after this?
nice to see someone else getting into the hobby but i think you need to have a look at your slicing setting a little haha anyway liked the video and reminds me when i first started with printers
Very cool! I just ordered my first printer last week, a Creality Ender 3 Pro. Where are you buying PLA for 14 bucks?! Lowest I’ve seen is about $23. I’m thinking about buying Hatchbox for $28, seems like it comes well reviewed
I think you mean "generic caricature mouse" ears... CYA
Any chance I can get a link to the filament you used please?
Not to be a nag, but you gotta wear a mask while sanding this stuff. You do you- just words from a concerned fan
Hang on a sec... if you hit HT PE material for 2 mins at 500C... how on earth did you print it at
Should have printed in Carbon Fiber Nylon
Sadly, in this case, that part could have been made so much faster by bending aluminum or even ABS plastic sheets but I applaud the attempt.
super glue works better to join parts
hey @b is for build: check this one? watch?v=VzjJFon4c8E you can actually print the entire piece at one go, and maybe even better and stronger!
Building a 3d printer with my friend this summer
great video need to slow down talking hard time following you and what you were saying not putting you down just was very interested in your video I make aluminium mining peices
When you split a model add registration tabs and indents to lock it together when you reassemble the pieces. Especially for longer flat surfaces. Printing the screw holes in your parts would be another great time saver. Then print a thin template to tape on the car for drilling your screw holes for perfect alignment. Best of luck.
You should look at the idustrial 3d printers - they now do carbon fibre printing... fistream.info/work/videot/bpOSk7euoGiV3nU
if you print it thinner and carbon skin it, you'll get a much lighter part with the same structural rigidity
Oh hell, here we go. This brings back the old anti-mp3 campaign "you wouldn't download a car would you?" My answer is same now as it was then. Yep I sure would.
I don't currently own a 3D printer but I would find it very dumb to leave a 3D printer unattended. After all you are dealing with plastic also a device that get's hot so why take the risk by leaving it unattended for hours. Least have someone in the same building so they can check on it now and then to make sure everything is fine. If that is not possible I would least find out if you could use a Raspberry Pi4 with Octoprint on the 3D printer with a camera. Then use the Octoprint plugin called "Octoprint Anywhere" so you could remote access the 3D printer any where no matter where you are. Least that way you could check to see what is happening once in a while. If something starts to go wrong with the print you could remote stop the print.
tip: when printing a part with support (like that vent you made), try to get the support material to touch the part you aren't going to see. In this case the inside of the vent, rather than the outside.
By the way, it's a nozzle,!
good job and welcome to 3d printing world, but i know the lungs are yours but use a mask when sanding... have fun
Get a glass bed and you'll be much happier.
.4mm nozzle is standard, i have 7 years into 3d printing
It's fun.
which 3d pen are you using?
Hello can you customise body kit ??
So its a whole video on bad assembly practices. YAY!
An oscillating tool might work well for trimming off the support structure.
you should print directly on the bed to get the bottom surface smooth instead of using supports or a raft - I have a 3d Printing channel with tips on 3d printing!
Here is my new 3D printer from China- broken out the box. 😂
printing these vertically would have saved so much time
Just popped in to say its cool seeing you work with Matthew of Design Prototype Test. His channel is awesome.
Pla is biodegradable. Plastics in cars are abs so why not print in abs. Plus you can glue or weld abs together with acetone
F
Hey if you don’t mind spending some time on your prints increase you shell/wall/top layers thicker it will keep you from accidentally sanding through your part into your infill
that is the peoblem with 3d printers you pay too much to buy it and always you have setting all the time you change print .
if you do separate pieces add dowels/pegs so they slide into each other
You should use a mask when you are sanding plastic ...
How long is the actual printing time?
made in China？
Need help please, what 3d printer will you recommend for printing a cleaning machine? thanks
Do you take commissions?
PTEG